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Sunday, June 8, 2008
Moisturizers 101: The basics of softer skin Find out what moisturizers can and can't do for your skin and how to select a moisturizer that suits your needs. Moisturizers prevent and treat dry skin, but that's not all they do. They can protect sensitive skin, improve skin tone and texture, and mask imperfections. In fact, you can probably find a moisturizer that claims to address whatever concerns you, from dull skin to clogged pores. But can a simple bottle of moisturizer meet these high expectations? About moisturizer ingredients On the most basic level, moisturizers hold water in the outermost layer of skin. They also act as a temporary barrier, allowing damaged surface cells time to repair themselves. Many moisturizers contain some combination of humectants and emollients, as well as other ingredients. Humectants (urea, glycerin, alpha hydroxy acids, lactic acid, others). These are substances that absorb water from the air and hold the moisture in the skin. Humectants need very high humidity levels to be effective. Humectants are also useful in softening thickened or scaly skin. Emollients (butyl stearate, glycerin, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum, others). These ingredients fill in the spaces between the cells in the skin, helping replace lipids and thus smoothing and lubricating rough skin. Emollients are either oil based, which means that a small amount of water is dissolved in oil, or water based, which means they are primarily water and have a light, nongreasy feel. Oil-based creams leave a slight residue on the skin and have more staying power than water-based creams do. Water-based creams are easier to apply and don't leave much of a residue, but they don't have as much staying power. Most creams and lotions on the market are water based (for example, Vanicream and Cetaphil). Eucerin is an example of an oil-based cream. Fragrances. Most moisturizers include fragrances, which give the product a fresh, pleasing odor and cover up the smell of other ingredients. Fragrances in skin-care products are the most likely cause of skin irritations or contact allergies. Fragrances that tend to cause skin reactions include cinnamic alcohol, hydroxycitronella and isoeugenol. Preservatives. Any product that includes water and oil must contain one or more preservatives to help prevent bacterial contamination after the product is opened. These ingredients can sometimes cause skin reactions. Preservatives that seem to cause problems for many people include quaternium-15 and imidazolidinyl urea. Moisturizers may include other ingredients as well, such as vitamins, minerals, plant extracts, sunscreens and sunless tanners. Some also contain ingredients that claim to boost your body's production of collagen and elastin, diminish stretch marks, smooth out wrinkles, paralyze muscles, unblock pores, and exfoliate dead skin cells. Many of these claims are unproved. Keep in mind that there's no guarantee that any moisturizer will live up to all of its claims or even contain its advertised ingredients. Moisturizers are considered cosmetics, so the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates them in a different manner than it does drugs. This means that products don't need to undergo rigorous testing for safety and effectiveness before going to market. Which moisturizer is best for you? The moisturizer that's best for you depends on many factors, including your skin type, your age and whether you have specific conditions, such as acne. For general guidelines, consider the following: Normal skin. Normal skin is neither too dry nor too oily. To maintain this natural moisture balance, use a water-based moisturizer that has a light, nongreasy feel. These moisturizers often contain lightweight oils, such as cetyl alcohol, or silicone-derived ingredients, such as cyclomethicone. Dry skin. To restore moisture to dry skin, choose a heavier, oil-based moisturizer that contains urea or propylene glycol — chemicals that help keep your skin moist. For very dry, cracked skin, oils are preferable. They have more staying power than creams do and are more effective at preventing water from evaporating from your skin. Oily skin. Oily skin is prone to acne and breakouts. Though oily, such skin still needs moisture, especially after using skin-care products that remove oils and dry out the skin. In addition, a light moisturizer can help protect your skin after washing. Be sure to pick an oil-free, water-based product and look for products labeled "noncomedogenic," which means it won't clog pores. Sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is susceptible to skin irritations, redness, itching or rashes. Use a moisturizer that doesn't contain potential allergens, such as fragrances or dyes, and is specifically designed for sensitive skin. Mature skin. As you age, your skin tends to become drier because your oil-producing glands become less active. To keep your skin soft and well hydrated, choose an oil-based moisturizer that contains petrolatum as the base, along with lactic acid or alpha hydroxy acids. These ingredients help hold in moisture and prevent flaky, scaly skin. Getting the most out of your moisturizer To make the most of your moisturizing routine: Find a moisturizer that fits your skin type and makes your skin look and feel soft. You may need to try several brands with differing ingredients before you find one you like. Keep in mind that cost has no definite relationship to effectiveness. Just because a moisturizer is expensive, doesn't mean it's more effective than a cheaper product. Apply moisturizers immediately after bathing. Pat or blot your skin until it's just barely dry, then apply moisturizer immediately to help trap water in the surface cells. Apply moisturizer to your hands and body as needed. Apply after bathing, showering, before exercising outdoors in cold weather, and every time you wash your hands. Although often ignored, your hands are more exposed to the elements, especially soaps and chemicals, than is any other part of your body. Don't use any heavy creams on your face unless you have excessive dryness. You can use heavy, oil-based creams on your legs, hands and feet because those areas tend to be drier. If a moisturizer doesn't improve the condition of your skin or you notice skin problems after using a moisturizer, see your doctor or dermatologist. He or she can help you create a personalized skin-care plan by assessing your skin type, evaluating your skin's condition and recommending moisturizers likely to be effective. taken from:http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/moisturizers/SN00042 |
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